Coolest Couple ever and Shamless Pitch

My apologies for the ubber long delay with out updating. Life, mainly work, kinda took off here in Naivasha. It’s always hard deciding what to update on and in what order.

So for once, I am actually going to start with all the work I have been doing here in Kenya (yes I do work).

So you know how my dream has always been to live in a village in Africa and learn from people and then work with people to just try out new ideas to help right? Because there is no “silver bullet” no 1 answer to solve a problem in every situation around the world, but if you live with people and work with them to make solutions you can try and try again till you get what fits that problem in that situation. Well that is exactly what I am doing right now here in Kenya.

Meet Nancy and Francis. 

Coolest couple I have ever met. Both are over 60 and both have been working endlessly to make a change in their village of Mirera for ages. Nancy is a community health worker, as in works for the DPHO voluntarily to help push anything from people’s right, to sanitation, to women’s groups. Francis is a Fundi (or carpenter/mason) and an elder in the village. They have a small “shamba” where they take care of their mentally disabled daughter, 1 young son and about 6 grand children. Also on there plot is a small garden where they try and grow vegetables for there home and a church. The church building was built by Francis and meets every night of the week in a small mud building near their house. This couple is all about progress, about helping the whole village, about making a lasting difference. When I barley mentioned the idea of Solar Toilets in a community meeting Nancy immediately jumped on saying that she loves experiments and we can use her plot and any way she can help should would love to. I went to visit her at her Shamba and found that the entire church (50 people every night) uses Nancy’s 1 latrine (that her and Francis built themselves) and that she would love more than anything to have a toilet just for the church. She loved the idea of our solar toilets so she could use the treated waste in her garden where the soil is basically sand. She got very excited, and thanks to GIZ- Hana and I working here as Sanivation had funds to be able to build and test our solar toilet for this church.

Designs began, of how to build a shared toilet and urinal that the church could use that would allow the waste to be treated on a solar concentrator, then composted, and re-used in the garden. We also wanted this toilet to be used long after we are gone weather solar treatment catches on or not. So we designed a solar shared latrine that also has a pit below it as an out strategy if all else fails. We found Chris, another Mason, to help finalize our designs and begin the material purchase. We told Nancy and Francis the dimensions of the pit (4ft diameter, 20 ft deep) and by 9am the next day this older couple, just the 2 of them were almost done digging the pit!

We told them the tree in their garden might be a problem for the solar concentrator and their immediate response was – “we will cut it down if it stands in the way of progress!” We told them we needed to collect some human feces in which to test and they opened up their old pit and started loading waste into the steel drum. We told them we wanted some kitchen scraps (organic waste) to begin compost and the NEXT day she had I giant drum full! Apparently she went around to all the vegetable stalls in the village to collect organic waste. I showed Nancy a picture of a cheap hand washing station called a Tippy Tap and the next day she had one 5 times better built and running next to her toilet!

Any time I mention any idea, both of them are ready and willing to do anything to help try it. We have since then sent up an incinerator for testing on their plot, we are now setting up a solar shower, and solar cookers- all ideas that they are helping me make and test into reality. And it is so much fun! I barley mentioned the idea of Eco-Bricks- these use trashed plastic bottles stuffed with other trash as building blocks and the 2 of them were ready to have 100 Eco-Blocks ready by the weekend for testing. And because of who they are, all the villagers listen to them. We are constantly having locals come by to see what all is going on, and they sit there and explain to people all these new ideas and about the experiments we are doing. It is the best testing site EVER. Both Hana and I LOVE when we get to go to their plot because we know it is going to be so productive and be a total blast.

So here is our solar toilet, still being finished. And here is our solar concentrator used to heat the waste over 70°C in just a couple hours.

All of that has been paid for by GIZ. Then other prototypes such as the solar shower, incinerators, solar cookers, are just coming out of our pockets and I love giving that to these people, but if we want to scale, if we want to do multiple iterations and then teach others how to make these so that it can become a business of its own here, we do need more capital.

Now here is my shameless pitch: if you would like to donate to such an incredible cause here is your chance. Incinerators cost about $50 and can help so much with the trash problems here. Solar showers cost about the same about and so do private solar cookers. All need to be developed till we get it just right and at the right price, then it needs to be taught, then some initial capital to help start a business. We will have locals, currently unemployed, trained in making these and selling them at prices people can afford and work toward new sustainable technologies made by people here in Naivasha for the people of Naivasha.

Let me know if you need/want more details, I am currently working on a way that donations could be made directly to an official non-profit company for tax purposes.

End of 2012

Happy New Years everyone!

New Years morning at 5,895m above sea level

I have had one of the most incredible years in 2012. I had a lot of time this past week while hiking up the tallest mountain in Africa to reflect and the conclusion is, how can 1 person be so blessed? I honestly can not thank God enough for all the incredible adventures I have had and people I have meet.

And I must say, the end of the year couldn’t have been more awesome. 

hang in there, this is rather long, but its got some good descriptions of my recent adventures in Africa

Mt. Kenya

The week before Christmas we did a hike up the tallest mountain in Kenya, Mt. Kenya, with an altitude of 4,800m above sea level. I was doing the hike with my hiking group that I found here in Kenya. They are a great group of people, almost all Kenyans based in Nairobi and a ton of fun with a constant desire to get outside and do things. 

 Mt. Kenya was beautiful. It is located right on the equator, one of the only places on earth that you can be on the equator and in snow! It was great to hang out with these new friends around the fire teaching them all kinds of games from America.


We did a lot of hiking in a short amount of time and coming down the group got really spread out and then a THICK fog came in and we all got separated from each other. Most people got lost trying to find the camp for lunch and we had to send out a few different search parties. It was interesting to be hiking by myself in a fog where I couldn’t see 3 ft in front of me, but could hear someone in the distance calling my name.

The view of the summit, with the clouds quickly rolling in

I would find the most beautiful latrine and take a million pics with it

Christmas

Then the following week for Christmas I was supposed to go camping in Aberdars National Park, but plans kind of fell through last min. So I wasn’t sure what to do for Christmas so I came back to Naivasha and was staying with my friend Amelia. On Christmas morning she got a call from a co-worker ( a white/British/Kenyan) inviting us to his Aunt’s house in the mountains for Christmas Lunch. This family originally from Britain has lived in Kenya for generations but still hold so many British traditions but in a very colonial way. 

They were the most welcoming family, in the most beautiful house up in the mountains over looking the valley and even Nairobi in the distance. There was a beautiful table set for a giant meal with plenty of family and friends. We were welcomed with hugs and mimosas and it only got better from there. We learned such British Christmas traditions as Christmas Crackers (complete with paper hats to wear during lunch and silly jokes), bread sauce, Christmas pudding, and so much more. They were such a welcoming family, if I had to miss being with my family, they were a wonderful substitute. We drank, and visited and even ended up dancing the night away with them. I can not be more thankful for such a lovely Christmas in Kenya.  

Mt. Kilimanjaro: the roof of Africa

After Christmas it was time to set out on the most exciting adventure of 2012- to climb 5,896m above sea level, to summit the tallest mountain in Africa, to conquer Mt. Kilimanjaro. We left on Dec 27^th early in the morning from down town Naivasha. 25 of us loaded onto a bus and headed to Tanzania. On the 7 hour bus ride there the rain poured the entire way, little did we know that was to be the standard for the next 8 days.

We stayed that night in the little town of Moshi at the base of Kilimanjaro. Even though this town is packed with tourists year around, it somehow has kept its small town Tanzanian charm to it. It was lovely, and sunrise from my hotel window gave one of the most beautiful views of Kili I have ever seen.

Day 1 on the mountain

The first day took us through a rain forest jungle habitat. It was beautiful. The colors were unreal, waterfalls every half a km, crazy animals, trees that looked like Ents from Lord of the Ring, and of course- rain. Lots and lots of rain. It was an incredible 10 km hike to the first campsite. But by the end it was late, and cold and we all were soaking wet.

Because of the late start on the mountain we got to the first campsite pretty late and therefore were given the only places left to stay- the Porter’s Quarters. All 16 girls on our trip were given 1 itty bitty room with 2 large bunk-beds for all of us to sleep and keep all of our stuff. It was a, um… cozy night.  

Meals were prepared every day by the porters/cooks, and usually consisted of a hot soup, bread and some kind of pasta with a stew. The food wasn’t bad, it was hot, and carb loaded but I sure was glad I brought some spices with me. 

Day 2 on the mountain

The second day had us hiking 12 km up out of the jungle into an alpine forest. Then as we hiked higher we left the forest and got to the Moreland area with small shrubs and great views of the surrounding valley (when the rain wasn’t pouring and we got glimpses of the great views). Yet again, the rain poured on us, it did stop at times to give us some sunshine but by the time we reached the 2^nd camp at 3,790m in elevation we all were so happy to have some shelter and get into some warm dry clothes. 

This guide is Thomas, 61 years old, he has climb Mt.Kili over 500 times!

Throughout the trip we each only carried a small day pack. Our big packs with sleeping bags, clothes and other equipment as well as food, and gas, and such were all carried by porters. This was my first experience using porters and it was defiantly weird to give someone else your bag to have them carry it, while they were also carrying huge bags of provisions, and they were in various quality of hiking gear themselves. They really made it possible for us to reach the top. And I am not only incredible thankful for them but also amazed by their strength.

Day 3

At almost 4,000m in elevation we needed to take some time to acclimate before we headed to higher elevations. So the third was our rest day. We slept in a bit (breakfast at 8am instead of 6am like other days), and went on a small hike taking us a few hundred meters higher in elevation to Zebra Rock. Here the volcanic rock has been weathered to give it white stripes over black rocks with waterfalls falling down over it. As we climbed to the top of the ridge you would never believe what happened… it started pouring down rain again. (Ok maybe you did guess it rain kind of defined our trip). The hike back on our “rest day” was very cold, wet and exhausting. Once again, we were all glad to get back to shelter and we spent the rest of the day learning to play Kenyan poker. 

Staying in Horombo Huts for 2 nights they put us up in the large room over the mess hall. It was just a large room with 12 bunk-beds so we all got our own bed and had space to keep our stuff. It was nice. And the views from this campsite were unreal. When it wasn’t raining or snowing we were up above the clouds and the sunrise and sunsets were gorgeous. 

Day 4

The fourth day got us up very early to begin the long hike up to the next and final camp Kibo. On this hike we left the Moreland area and got to the alpine desert. Water sources were left behind us as large open crater areas allowed wind gusts and hail to pelt us non-stop. At one point you could see the peak of Mount Kilimanjaro, but it was quickly lost in the clouds again. It was on this hike that you could really start feeling the lack of oxygen. At one point I almost fainted trying to sing while hiking, I now know that the Emily can’t sing and hike zone is at altitudes around 4,500m. 

Kibo hut is located at about 5,000m in elevation an about 8Km from the summit of Mt. Kili. You can see the campsite about .5 Km before you get there but that last little bit is a steep hill that was ridiculously difficult to climb, it felt as if the campsite kept getting further and further away. My good friend Amelia and I were hiking next to each other and having a great time, but it hurt to laugh because the oxygen levels were so low. We stayed in good spirits but were so happy to finally reach Kibo and have warm tea waiting for us and dry clothes. We arrived to Kibo at about 1pm on December 31^st 2012 and had 10 hours to rest up before the summit push. Resting at that altitude is really interesting. Because your body is exhausted, all you want to do is lay down and sleep, but once you lay down you can not sleep. The lack of oxygen makes you out of breath even when you are lying down. And it’s REALLY cold, so you just lay there, quietly, but you can tell everyone else in the room is also wide awake. But you lay there for 10 hours with a break for dinner around 7. And your appetite is suppressed too, at dinner even though you are starving your stomach can only handle maybe 1 bowl of soup. Then there is the headache, it is constant worse for some people, mine was just a sharp pain in the back of the head that lasted the whole time I was above 4,800m.

Day 5

They woke us up a bit before new years to get ready and have a bit of snacks before we began the main journey. We left camp right at the turn of the year and it was freezing cold but also crystal clear. The stars were incredible, and the milky was way completely clear. An almost full moon lit the path so that you did not need a flash light. As we hiked up the steep incline heading to the crater ridge you could see the light of the small town of Moshi 5000m below us, if you looked closely you could even see small flashes of colored lights which our guide explained to us were fire works going off in celebration of the New Year. It was only then that I realized just how high we were.

We started off as a compact group, it felt like penguins, all waddling in a single file line up the mountain. We quickly caught up to a large group of older Asians and were going so slow that my body started dropping temperature. So 2 others in our group who hike rather fast and I took a guide with us and started passing everyone. We soon found ourselves way ahead of everyone else climbing up the mountain. It was really cool to look back and see the line of head lamps heading up the winding path. It was hard. It was cold, windy, and the lack of oxygen prevented you fro ever catching your breath. And it only got harder the higher we went. I felt like my lung was going to pop. I lost all feeling in my toes and fingers. All I could focus on was one foot at a time. I had to bring back everything I have ever learned about positive thinking, about goal periods, about focus and believing in yourself. It was hard. As we got close to the summit we were moving so slow, and needing to stop and breath every 10 steps or so, it was one of the hardest things I have ever done. I was pushing my body well pass what I thought was possible. Right, left, right left, that’s all you could let your mind think of in order to keep going. It was so cold- both my bottles of water froze and there was nothing I could do about that. Toward the end of the push to the summit it became a scramble climb up rocks, the ice I had for feet and hands suddenly where needed to finish, it hurt, it was hard.

But somehow we did it. As we were coming up the final bit you could see into the crater at the top of Kilimajaro. It was coated in snow and reflected in the moon light. Very beautiful. Then as you finished to the top peak it all was snow, and you could see glaciers! And it was so clear you could see the lights from the city way below. The milky way was so bright, and the stars, just unreal. It was amazing to see how the moon light reflected off the snow and glaciers but it was SO COLD. Colder by far than I have ever been before. We had summated at about 4:30am, actually ended up being the first group to summit that morning, making me one of the first people to summit Kilimanjaro in 2013. But the problem with summiting so fast is that it was so cold, and such a long time till sunrise, that we had a quick summit snickers and headed back down. The rest of our hiking group was well behind us and they ended up summiting right at sunrise and their pictures are amazing. I am sad that we missed that but, it was so cold there is no way we could have waited, and I was so glad to be heading back down because my body was so exhausted I am not sure how much longer I could have handled that environment. The biggest bummer was that my camera battery had froze and didn’t work. So I myself do not have any pictures of the summit, but here are my friends. 

Because our little fast group summited so fast and headed back down so fast we got to pass all of our friends who were still on their fight up while we were on our way down. It was great to encourage them, but I really was excited to be heading back to camp and shelter. Even the way down was ridiculously exhausting. It blew my mind how long it took us going down the mountain to get back to top camp. My whole body was ready to give out. As we got close to camp was when the sun rise began and it was quite a site to see. But as soon as we got to camp I was more than happy to go inside our hut and get into my warm sleeping bag and pass out.

A few hour latter our fast group woke up, had a small bowl of soup, packed our stuff and headed down to the next camp where the whole group was to stay that night. The hike down was another 12 Km after an already exhausting 24 hours. Then the rain, wind and even hail decided to grace us on our way down to Horombo camp. I was so glad to get back to camp early afternoon and have half a day to relax. Many of our group who took a very long time to summit didn’t make it back to Horombo until well pass dark. One girl in our group had even required help to get down from the summit and needed to be carried a chunk of the time back to camp. We on the other hand got into warm, dry clothes, and played cards for the afternoon. So while I am bummed I missed sunrise at the peak, I am also really glad for the time I got to rest; it was needed for the next day.

Day 6

We had to travel 20km and about 3000m in elevation back down the mountain all in 1 day. This one day being immediately after the extremely strenuous day had had just had. It was long, but it was nice to be back at an altitude that we could talk and laugh comfortably again. Of course it rained. And a couple people from our group needed help due to exhaustion or messed up knees. But I had a blast taking it slow and really enjoying the views. The group had gotten so use to my singing and dancing that they started demanding entertainment; they would yell out a song or a style and I was to perform for them, it was fine by me and they even taught me a few African songs and dances. 

Near the very end, when we were back in the jungle area the rain stopped and the sun came out. It was so nice that Amelia and I decided to dive into one of the pools and play in the water fall. It was very cold snow melt but the water was crystal clear and it felt great on the sore muscles.

Around 3pm we finished. We reached the entrance gate feeling like champions. Luckily the gift shop at the bottom sold cold Kilimanjaro beers and champagne- and we started celebrating immediately. We all received certificates of our accomplishments, tipped our porters and guides and loaded back onto the bus with much laughter, and lots of high 5s.

We headed back to Moshi where even the cold shower in the hotel rooms felt awesome. Everyone got clean, we had a HUGE dinner and then we all headed out to truly celebrate our accomplishment. It’s amazing how quickly exhaustion can disappear, all you need is a couple beers and the loud music of a hole in the wall African club. We danced the night away in some small Moshi club and went crazy when they played “its time to celebrate, 1 more time” about 15 times for us. 

Back to Kenya

Early the next day saw us back on a bus, crossing Tanzania and back into Kenya. Amazingly this was the first day since we left that it didn’t rain, don’t you love the irony of life? The next couple days were still holidays here in Kenya, so Amelia and I did nothing but vedged out. We watched dumb movies, stayed in our PJs most of the day, ate tons of food including 3 tubs of ice cream. I took long rides on my motor cycle just soaking in the sun and the warm weather. I really love my home in Naivasha and although it was one incredible adventure, I am glad to be back. Work is going to be packed coming up, as I only have about 7 weeks left in Kenya.

Bring it on.

Blessing the Rains in Africa

So you know that 80’s song “Rains down in Africa”? well it has been stuck in my head since my brother Jeremy posted a comment about it on my FB wall before I left for Africa, and well a few weekends ago I actually got to Bless the Rains in Africa.

In fact every weekend I have been privileged enough to go on some incredible adventures. Doing a rain dance with a Massi Tribe almost seems normal these days.

I met a hiking group and have signed up to climb Mont Kilimanjaro this new years. I am pumped, and so for training a few weekends back we went on a 28 Km hike of Mont Suswa. Mont Suswa is a HUGE reserve, protecting animals, traditional Massi tribes and the natural geological exibits. We first hiked out to the caves, and anyone who knows me, knows how much I love caves. They were huge, formed by lava flows from when the Suswa volcano was active. Our Massi guide took us through the “shit Shower” a small tunnel through extremely dense bat populations and you can guess what happened. It was beautiful and we had a blast.

Then we also past a couple traditional Massi villages. We got to learn how they harvest steam produced by the geothermal activity in the area and use it for their water. We got to see their small huts made only from dung and sticks. And they were doing this dance (lots of jumping) in their traditional attire apparently calling the rains down to finish the short rains so they could start their migrating the following week without rain. And we got to join them, so I kinda got to bless the rains in Africa. How cool is that?

Then we walked to the cone of the old Suswa volcano, it is a double caldera, meaning that it erupted once and blew a big crater in the cone, then in the crater another volcano cone formed and when that one exploded another crater was created. Basically it was beautiful. We walked through a HUGE jungle forest in the crater. Surrounded by monkeys, snakes and had to keep an eye out for leopards in the trees. 

The following weekend I went on a camping trip with a group of couch surfers. We camped at Boyor Subuk National park. Couch surfers are fun because it was such a mix of people from around the world. We went on a great hike up one of the peaks on Saturday. Watching monkeys of all varieties, actually buffalos (not to be confused with the Bison found in the states). For many of the Kenyans it was their first camping experience, so I got to teach so many how to put up a simple tent. The evening was filled with many silly group games, lots of food and just a great time. At one point a baboon somehow got into the car with the food and made off with 2 loafs of bread, and then sat eating it not 20 ft away from us in the forest taunting us with his steal.

Sunday we walked from the national park to 14 Falls. It was an incredible walk that took us down a dirt path through many small villages. Most of these places never see a white person, so the crowd of children following me grew bigger and bigger but they showed us the back way to the river, it was pretty cool.

I had no idea what to expect with 14 falls, and let me tell you, my mind was BLOWN. It is a HUGE river that drops down about 50 ft in some places to create an entire crescent shaped waterfall range, you can kinda tell the 14 separate falls, but really they all combine to form one HUGE waterfall. Now sadly this weekend was one that I forgot my camera, my waterproof shock proof camera… so pics are sadly limited. But we climbed down the side of the water falls to try and get to the rocks at the bottom, to do that we had to cross extremely fast powerful rapids on the most questionable falling apart wooden “bridge” (it was more like a ladder on its side). We were already slightly questioning this as we were crossing when they pointed out a giant African Crocodile swimming below us. My stomach definitely dropped- but we made it safe. And a local Kenyan tribesman informed us that for $3 he would show us a safe lagoon to swim in and even take us up to one of the waterfalls you can jump in. Now you should know a couple things about Kenya. 1^st is most Kenyans do not swim. They might get in water, but only up to there waist. So people swimming is odd to them. 2^nd white people are rare, so a swimming white person is a spectacle to them. Needless to say, I jumping off the water fall into rapids drew a crowd. 3^rd is that trash and waste of any kind is a big problem in most rivers here. So that water was some of the most polluted, dirty water I have ever been it. And yet the falls were amazingly beautiful, and jumping off 30ft falls is always exhilarating. It made for quite an experience. 

We spent the rest of the afternoon just climbing over the rocks, climbing up natural roots of trees up on top of huge boulders and diving into the water. It was a paradise for me.

Then this past weekend I FINALLY got to go explore my own backyard – Hell’s Gate National Park. 

 (This is the ONLY map for Hell's Gate, it is posted on the entrance to the park)

YES, this is the place that inspired the drawers for one of my all time favorite movies – The Lion King. Fisher’s Tower, inspired Pride Rock, and the gorge looks exactly like where Mufassa was killed by wildebeest. Its one of the few National Parks that lets you bike in and around the park. So we mountain biked through the park,  zebras, wildebeest, warthogs, giraffes, buffalo all around us. Gorgeous mountains and cliff faces everywhere (rock climbing is really popular in the park). Then that lead us to the gorge. The gorge is one of the main attractions in the park, you are required to pay for a guide if you want to go down into it and explore the devil’s bed room, devil’s shower, hot and cold springs, climbing, swimming, waterfalls and every other kind of natural playground equipment you could imagine. 

 (biking in Hell's Gate, that is "Pide Rock" in the background) 

 (Playing in the Canyon, rock climbing, waterfalls, hot springs, my 2 German friends came with me shown above)

All of this, literally in my backyard of where I am living in Kenya! SO MUCH FUN! By the time we got back to my shack we were exhausted from a full day of hard core fun in the sun. Good thing my Kewi friend who lives down the path from me was grilling for us an entire leg of lamb. I have many plans for continued exploration of the gorge complete with rock climbing and mountain biking. Like I said, it’s a rough life here.